Bologna
Bologna: The Capital of Salumi and a Gastronomic Treasure:
Bologna, often hailed as the capital of salumi, is a paradise for food lovers. According to the MuSa Museo della Salumeria in Castelnuovo Rangone, Italy produces over 10,000 varieties of cured meats, many of which can be found in the city’s salumerie, gastronomie, and vibrant mercati.
A stroll through the Quadrilatero transports you back to medieval times, with streets named after the trades they once hosted: Via Drapperie (wool), Via Orefici (jewelry), Via Clavature (tea), and Vicolo Ranocchi, once home to frog vendors. Today, these streets are bustling with locals and visitors enjoying taglieri—wooden boards laden with salumi e formaggi, paired with condiments like sun-dried tomatoes, honey, preserves, and mostarda.
Bologna’s quintessential wine for daytime drinking is Pignoletto, a crisp, sparkling white from the nearby Colli Bolognesi. While Lambrusco might appear on some menus, locals stick to Pignoletto—after all, this is Bologna, not Modena, where Lambrusco reigns supreme.
Where to Eat:
For a Classic Taglieri (board of salumi and cheeses) i.e., prosciutto, mortadella, salame rosa, parmigiano reggiano, squacquerone:
•Simoni Salumeria – An iconic spot offering delectable panini, using a variety of local breads and unforgettable meat and cheese boards.
•La Baita – Another solid choice nearby serving fantastic taglieri di salumi e formaggi.
•Tamburini: Famous for its range of Italian meats and cheeses, perfect for stocking up on a wide selection of gastronomia ( prepared foods)
•051 Zerocinquantuno – A great alternative, though Simoni remains the top pick.
For a unique experience, visit Bottega Ranocchi, a butcher shop serving tigelle—an ancient stamped bread filled with meats, cheeses, or pesto Modenese (a heavenly blend of pork lard, garlic, rosemary, and Parmigiano Reggiano).
Across Piazza Maggiore, Pan8 on Via d’Azeglio specializes in taglieri and panini. Don’t miss the A Tal Deg, featuring ribbons of thin Mortadella Bologna IGP, creamy burrata, and pistachio cream, all tucked into hot-pressed Tortellino bread.
Dinner Highlights:
Securing a table at Bologna’s top restaurants can be a challenge, but it’s worth the effort:
Osteria all’Bottega: experience authentic Emilian cuisine crafted with tradition and care. The menu showcases a vast selection of premium salumi, handmade pasta, and expertly prepared meats, all celebrating the rich flavors of the region.
Al Cambio: in Bologna, this modern yet unpretentious spot is a favorite for lovers of traditional cuisine. Despite its out-of-town location, it draws diners with its expertly prepared, flavorful dishes that celebrate classic Italian flavors.
i Portici-Michelin starred young talented chef Nicola Annunziata offers three tasting menus five, seven, and nine courses paired with expert-selected wines. Dine in the elegant main hall or the romantic 14th-century icehouse, where a glass floor reveals the wine cellar below.
•Trattoria Via Serra – Call at least two weeks in advance (preferably with help from a local if your Italian isn’t fluent).
•Trattoria da Me – Famous for friggione and crescentine.
•Osteria Broccaindosso – Known for great off-menu specials.
•Grassilli – Founded by Italian actor Raoul Grassilli, here there is superbly executed traditional dishes, I think the best tortellini in brodo in the city. Menu is super simple but always fantastic. Changes a little with the seasons.Tiny place, often full plan accordingly. Staff are direct, but polite.
•Vagh in Uffezi – A charming husband-and-wife-run spot with a small but exceptional menu.
•Ahimè and Oltre – Modern takes on Bolognese cuisine.
•Casa Monica: a quaint and cozy venue offering comforting, and elevated traditional dishes in a modern colorful setting,
•Trattoria Battibecco: an authentic Bolognese experience, serving hearty meals with plenty of flavor.
Osteria dei Grifoni : Nestled in a rustic, brick-vaulted setting, Osteria dei Grifoni offers an authentic Bolognese dining experience. The menu is concise and changes daily, often presented verbally by the chef, who engages personally with guests to recommend dishes. Standout offerings include bruschetta, ragu, and a simple yet delightful mascarpone dessert. The atmosphere is warm and convivial, making it a hidden gem for those seeking traditional cuisine with a personal touch.
Trattoria dal Biassanot :Located near Bologna’s historic canals, Trattoria dal Biassanot is renowned for its homemade pasta and classic regional dishes. The cozy interior, adorned with wood beams and lace tablecloths, complements the warm service. Signature dishes like tortellini in brodo, osso buco, and rabbit are frequently praised by patrons. It’s an ideal spot for those seeking traditional Bolognese flavors in a welcoming environment.
•Trattoria Serghei: Well-loved for its traditional dishes and warm service.
•Osteria Atipici: a contemporary twist on classic Bolognesi dishes, great salumi e formaggi boards, and an excellent cottaletta Bolognese draped in prosciutto and melted young parmigiano reggiano with crispy creamy patate al forno.
•Scattomatto: a great spot for a laid-back meal featuring modern Italian cuisine.
•Darcy: Contemporary take on the classics, this uber popular spot is highly recommended for those looking for a fusion experience.
•Trattoria de Giampi e Ciccio: your typical beloved neighborhood checkered table cloth family run trattoria, this place is busy all the time, serves honest food done really well.
•Osteria Sette Chiese: Known for its rustic charm and delicious Bolognese specialties, very good large salads and contorni if your craving greens
•Trattoria Collegio di Spagna: Offers a taste of Bologna with a range of locally inspired options. Service is nice, white table cloths with a casual elegance.
•Osteria dell’Orsa: cheap and cheerful neighborhood staple, popular with students, seating can be tight, be prepared to sit picnic style, young wine, young crowd, eat and run type place. Pretty good.
•Sfogliarina: good inventive pastas, along with traditional staples, also fresh pasta shop for take away. Avoid the weekends, very crowded with out of towners, so be prepared to wait. Unless you come around 8:30/9:00 before they close at 9:30. No reservations.
•Al Sangiovese: a cozy place serving classic dishes paired with excellent wines from the region. A definite favorite.
•Casa Merlo: traditional food in a welcoming, homey atmosphere that makes you feel like family.
•il Passatello: an inviting spot for enjoying dishes made with the signature Bolognese pasta.
•Vicolo Colombina: A small, intimate place with a menu focused on traditional flavors.
•Incucina (nice for lunch) A great option for a quick, yet delicious, lunch in a casual setting.
•Trebbio di Reno: known for its simple yet flavorful dishes that highlight regional
•Drogheria della Rosa: a charming, rustic setting serving local specialties with a twist.
•Osteria Podestà: welcoming restaurant in the Quadilatero, sit outside,traditional Bolognese cuisine
•Trattoria del Tempo Buono: At Trattoria del Tempo Buono, Bologna’s culinary traditions shine. House-made pasta, rich cotoletta alla Bolognese, and top-tier salumi steal the show. Grab a seat in Piazza San Martino, pair your meal with a craft cocktail or vermouth, and soak in the flavors of true Italian cooking.
•Trattoria Leonida: aperfect spot for a casual meal with an authentic Bolognese flavor.
•Polpette e Crescentine:a street food lover’s dream serving up fried foods and local snacks on Aldrovandi.
•Le Golosità Di Nonna Aurora (near train station but really good) Known for its delicious, homemade food with a truly authentic touch.
•Le Moline: atraditional eatery offering Bolognese dishes in a welcoming environment.
•Vamolino: a delightful place to experience local fare with contemporary twists,and lovely staff.
Pizza:
•Ranzani 13: top-notch pizzeria known for its delicious thin-crust pizzas and creative toppings.
•Berbere :Famous for its Neapolitan-style pizzas, featuring fresh ingredients and unique combinations.
•Regina :A cozy pizzeria with a great selection of pizzas, perfect for a casual meal with friends.
•io fior mio: A small but inviting spot that serves high-quality, flavorful pizzas with a focus on authenticity.
•Rovescio: Offering a delicious range of pizzas with an innovative twist and great attention to detail.
•Da Michele: A beloved name in the pizza world, offering traditional pizza that’s simple yet mouthwatering.
•Sorbillo: A renowned pizzeria with a reputation for classic Neapolitan-style pizza that is loved by locals and tourists alike.
Seafood:
•Banco 32 : A seafood lover’s paradise, offering fresh fish and shellfish in a stylish atmosphere.
•Osteria Bartolini : known for its expertly prepared seafood dishes, served in a quaint and friendly setting.
Gluten-Free:
•La Capriata :A dedicated gluten-free restaurant that specializes in delicious, safe options for those with dietary restrictions.
Enoteche: ( Wine Bars) :
For an excellent glass of wine, check out:
Camera a Sud: a fantastic wine bar offering a variety of wines paired with delicious tapas-style dishes.
•Antica Drogheria Calzolari :charming wine bar with a rich history, perfect for enjoying local wines and small bites.
•Le Stanze: stylish wine bar offering an extensive selection of wines in an elegant, relaxed setting.
•Scovami – amazing wines, very accomplished sommelier, his shop is known for its curated wine selection, expertly recommended by sommelier Davide. Also superior salumi, formaggi and pantry items.
•Velluto (breakfast & cocktails) A chic spot offering breakfast, cocktails, and a diverse wine selection.
Gelaterie:
Where to Get the Best Gelato in Bologna
Most of these spots are nestled in the historic city center—though a few may require a bus ride or a bit of a trek. All are well worth the effort. I keep this list updated… as much as my cholesterol allows.
•Cremeria Santo Stefano: Innovative and delicious flavors, the best you will have, try the speculoos, pistachio, nocciola, or the gusto del Messi ( flavor of the month)
•Sorbetteria Castiglione – fantastic, Dolce Emma, Pistachio, Cremino Guglielmo ® Cremino Ludovico ®Dolce EmmA®Dolce Karin®are exceptional. Ask Emma one of the staff members, she will help you through your gelato journey and she is lovely
Organic, plant-based, and full of flavor. The star? The maritozzo—a fluffy Roman brioche split open and stuffed with gelato. Grab one, find a seat in Piazza San Francesco, and enjoy the view (and the sugar rush).
• Galliera49:
Seasonal, organic, and brutally honest—no out-of-season melon here. Their granita is the kind of thing you don’t know you need until it’s too late. Come summer, go for melon or fig and thank me later.
A bit of a journey from the center, but this one’s a pilgrimage. Dreamed up by a former software architect turned gelato alchemist. Start with the classics—or go bold with Gorgonzola and almonds. For full joy, order the Sciroccata: granita, gelato, and panna in one glorious cup.
• Sablé:
Not your average gelato shop. Alessandro Cesari crafts delicate, surprising flavors—think sake kasu milk and Bolognese cream with azuki beans. No preservatives, no thickeners, no shortcuts. Just small-batch, seasonal perfection.
• Gelatauro:
A southern soul in a northern city. Pistachio and almond like you’d find in Sicily, jasmine granita, and even manna—yes, the sweet resin from Castelbuono. Bonus: one of Bologna’s best breakfasts, if hot chocolate and cookies sound like your kind of morning.
• Stefino:
Cross the bridge by the train station and you’ll hit this low-key favorite. Local and organic, with short lists and serious flavors. Their sorbets are clean and punchy—try fig, mandarin, or the peppery chocolate Yucatan. Vegan and gluten-free cones seal the deal.
One of the city’s most beloved classics. Rich, creamy, and gloriously over-the-top. Grab a cone and take a lazy stroll through Piazza Cavour—you’ll feel like you’ve been let in on a local secret
• Vero
Clean, simple, and focused on quality. Vero makes everything in-house using organic ingredients, including their own nut milks. The flavors are fresh and honest—try lemon with basil or a single-origin chocolate. A solid choice if you like your gelato less sweet and more ingredient-driven.
Caffe e Pasticcerie:
For a perfect morning cappuccino (or cappuccio, as the locals say), head to:
•Forno Brisa known for its artisanal breads and delicious pastries, a local favorite for a breakfast stop.
•Aroma (Specialità caffè on Porta Nova):A specialty coffee shop serving high-quality brews in a modern, stylish setting.
•BURO (eggs and avocado toast) trendy café known for its inventive breakfast options and casual vibe.
•Paola Atti (no caffè) renowned family owned pasticceria since 1868, famous for its offerings, especially Bologna sweet rice cake Torta di Riso and a variety of pastries, biscotti, and fresh pasta
•Impero (on via Caprarie or Indipendenza) A historic café with an extensive menu of coffees, pastries, and light bites.
•Regina di Quadri: beloved spot for traditional Bolognese coffee culture and excellent pastries.
•Pallotti: a charming café offering a delightful array of coffee and baked goods in a relaxed atmosphere.
•Carosello: known for its high-quality espresso and delicious pastries, perfect for a mid-day treat.
•Cafe Terzi: a specialty coffee shop that takes its brews seriously, offering a great selection of blends.
•La Bottega del Caffè: An iconic café serving exceptional coffee and a wide range of sweet treats.
•Caffè Gamberini: historic café located in the heart of Bologna, perfect for a leisurely coffee break.
•Pasticceria Santo Stefano: Famous for its classic pastries and attention to detail, a must-try for dessert lovers.
•Caffè Zanarini : A historic and elegant café, ideal for enjoying a cup of coffee in the heart of Bologna.
•La Borbonica Caffè & Bar: A trendy café offering great coffee and light meals in a modern
Pair your coffee with a brioche con pistacchio or one of the many flaky pastries available. But be careful—locals call them brioche or pasta. Saying “croissant” is a dead giveaway that you’re a tourist!
Street Food:
•Tigelleria for a Tigelle: Known for its delicious tigelle, a traditional Bolognese flatbread served with a variety of fillings.
•Sfarina for a Piadina: A perfect spot to enjoy piadina, the famous flatbread of Emilia-Romagna, filled with delicious local ingredients.
•Cassone Riminese for a Cassone: Specializing in cassone, a type of stuffed flatbread typical of the Rimini area.
•Indegno for a Crescentine: Offering crescentine, a deep-fried Bolognese specialty served with various fillings.
•A Marcello for a Fried Fish Cone: A casual spot where you can enjoy freshly fried fish served in a convenient cone for street-side dining.
Forni (Bakeries)
•Forno Brisa: top bakery known for its high-quality breads, pastries, and unique twists on traditional baked goods.
•Calzolari :A beloved bakery offering a variety of fresh, delicious breads and pastries, perfect for any time of day.
Markets:
•Mercato del Erbe: bustling market offering fresh produce, local delicacies, and artisan goods.
•Mercato di Mezzo (food stalls): A vibrant food market with a wide variety of Italian specialties, perfect for food lovers.
•Quadilatero:a historical market area, offering a range of local delicacies and gourmet products.
•Azienda Agricola Palladino: Specializes in organic, locally grown produce and artisanal products.
•Mercato Ritrovato: a traditional market offering fresh food, local specialties, and a great atmosphere.
Unique Finds: Shopping & Local Specialties
•Aguzzeria del Cavallo: – A historic shop for knives and pasta tools.
•Giuseppe Giusti :– Italy’s oldest balsamic vinegar producer, offering tastings.
•Al Regno della Forma: – A paradise for Parmigiano Reggiano lovers, with cheese wheels stacked high and cut fresh to order.
Beyond Food:
Work off all the indulgence with a walk under the city’s porticoes to the Santuario di San Luca—a breathtaking climb despite the leg burn.
Points of Interest:
•Santa Maria Della Vita Chiesa: A beautiful church featuring stunning art and architecture, located in the heart of Bologna.
•Sala Farnese in dell’orologio: historic hall known for its stunning Renaissance architecture and rich history.
•Sette Chiese, Piazza Santa Stefano: unique complex of seven churches, each with its own historical significance.
•Piazza Maggiore: central square of Bologna, surrounded by stunning medieval buildings and attractions.
•Basilica di San Luca: famous for its sanctuary perched on a hill offering beautiful views of Bologna.
•Sala Borsa (Roman Ruins): historical library built on ancient Roman ruins, offering both culture and history.
•Basilica di San Petronio : magnificent church located in Piazza Maggiore, known for its unfinished façade.
•Museo della Storia di Bologna: fascinating museum offering insights into the rich history of Bologna.
•Giardino Margherita: a peaceful public park, perfect for a relaxing stroll or picnic.
•Quadilatero : vibrant historical area, filled with markets and shops offering local products.
•Due Torri: The iconic medieval towers of Bologna, offering incredible views of the city.
•Corte Isolani: A charming courtyard with historical buildings, perfect for a stroll and some quiet reflection.
•Biblioteca l’Archiginnasio: one of Bologna’s most historic libraries, home to a vast collection of manuscripts and books.
•Teatro Anatomic: a historic theater used for medical dissections, a must-see for history buffs.
•Mambo Museo: modern art museum in Bologna, showcasing works from contemporary artists.
•Little Venice: charming spot near the canals in Bologna, offering picturesque views and photo opportunities.
HOTELS AND MORE:
These hotels offer comfort, character, and easy access to the city’s best food experiences.
•Hotel Brun – A cozy, welcoming stay in the heart of Bologna.
•Art Hotel Commercianti – Set in a historic medieval building, just steps from Piazza Maggiore.
•Corona d’Oro – Elegant 4-star hotel in a historic building near Piazza Maggiore.
•Art Hotel Orologio – Stylish boutique hotel with views of Bologna’s famous clock tower.
•Royal Hotel Carlton – Luxury hotel with a spa, conference center, and refined atmosphere.
•Hotel Internazionale – Upscale hotel near the train station, blending classic and modern decor.
•Falegnami Boutique Suites – Chic suites in a restored artisan workshop, offering a unique stay.
•L’8 Boutique Apartments – Stylish serviced apartments in the historic center of Bologna.
•Casa Isolani – Elegant guesthouse in a historic Bolognese palazzo, offering a refined stay.
•Grand Hotel Majestic “già Baglioni” – Bologna’s most luxurious stay, perfect if you want to feel like royalty.
Hotels Near the Train Station:
If you need to be close to transport while still enjoying Bologna’s flavors:
Kitchen Shops – For Those Who Love to Cook:
The best food in Bologna isn’t just found in restaurants—it’s made at home. These are my go-to spots for sourcing top-quality tools.
•A. Pezzoli Enologia – A paradise for enology and food preservation lovers.
•Casa del Tegamino di Montanari – The perfect stop for traditional Italian cookware.
•Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo – Open since 1783, this shop has everything from pasta cutters to artisanal knives.
•Ferramenta Castaldini – A hidden gem for professional-grade kitchen gear.
•Marzocchi – If you need a top-quality pan or knife, look no further.
Where to Buy the Best Anchovies:
Bologna might not be on the coast, but it takes its seafood seriously. Here’s where to get the good stuff.
•Scovami – Ask for Davide in Via Castiglione—he knows his anchovies.
•Eataly Bologna – A reliable source for high-quality preserved fish.
Chocolate Shops – Because Life is Sweet:
Bologna has a long chocolate-making tradition, and these shops are where to find the best.
•Majani – The oldest chocolate shop in Italy, famous for its Fiat Cremino.
•Gilberto – A historic shop with a fantastic selection of chocolates and spirits.
•Roncati Cioccolato – For those who want handcrafted chocolates made with passion.
Cool Shops – Unique Finds & Local Craftsmanship:
If you’re looking for something special to take home, these spots showcase the best of Bologna’s artisans.
•Back Door – A sneakerhead’s dream.
•Antica Cappelleria Malaguti – Handmade hats, perfect for adding some Italian flair to your wardrobe.
•Max e Giò Calzoleria – Artisan shoemakers keeping tradition alive.
•Bifranci Ceramica – Beautiful, locally made ceramics.
•De Paz – Classic menswear with Italian elegance.
•Drogheria della Pioggia – A true old-world shop with spices, teas, and hard-to-find ingredients.
•Paradisoterrestre – A mix of design, fashion, and art.
•La Coroncina – Specializing in religious and traditional Bolognese jewelry.
•La Tarlatana – A charming shop full of handmade goods.
•Vintage55 – Timeless, vintage-inspired fashion.
Bologna is a city best explored through its flavors, traditions, and craftsmanship. Whether you’re here for a short visit or a deep dive into its food culture, these places will help you experience the city like a true local. Buon viaggio e buon appetito!