Bologna
~Bologna-is the the capital of Salumi, there are over 10,000 types of salumi made in Italy ( according to the MuSa Museo della Salumeria in Castelnuovo Rangone). Bologna is cramped with Salumerie, Gastronomie, Mercati with just about every delightful Emiliano food there is. Stroll the Quadilatero, and marvel at the various streets named for the products they used sell during medieval times, Via Drapperie ( wool) Via Orecifici ( Jewelry) Via Clavature ( Tea) there’s even Viccolo Ranocchi (it used to sell sold frogs). Nowadays people are pouring in the streets, devouring salumi e formaggi, artfully placed on a wooden board called taglieri along with various condimenti like, pomodori secchi, honey, confetture and mostarda. Wine is there too, the wine of Bologna for day drinking is Pignoletto and crisp white sparkling wine found in the nearby Colli Bolognese area. Lambrusco is here too, however if you’re eating with a Bolognese, strictly the Pignoletto as we are in Bologna-not Modena where the Lambrusco such as Grasparosso, Sobara and Salamino are kings! My go to place is Simoni Salumeria an iconic place with everything you need to achieve your pork hangover. Menu is simple, panini are great, the focaccia is soft and I normally opt for that as the bread option to many of there panini choices. Their taglieri are a must! La Baita next door is decent too, and O51 Zerocinquantuno is also there. All are good, but SImoni is my pick. Bottega Ranocchi is a little butcher shop that does Tigelle with various fillings, the stamped Emiliano circular ancient bread that is named from the clay disks used in the past to cook them, they were called crescentina back then. Now they are baked in a tigelliera and stuffed with various meats, cheeses and Cinzia or pesto modenese, a paste made from pork lard, garlic, rosemary and parmigiano reggiano- you’re going to want this! My absolute favorite place is not in the Quadilatero however, it,s across the Piazza Maggiore on Via d’Azeglio, Pan8. Here you with find solo taglieri e panini, try the Al Tal Deg, a Bolognese dialect word named after a popular game. The A Tal Deg is ribbons of thin Mortadella Bologna IGP, creamy sweet & salty burratina and pistacchio crema, on a hot pressed Tortellino bread.
Now let’s talk dinner, Bologna is brimming with culinary temples the most written about ones are Osteria del’Bottega and Trattoria via Serra, just about every publication on Earth as reviewed and listed them-rightly so, because they are exceptional. As a result theres no doubt that they are challenging to get a table. A tip here is call Trattoria Via Serra first thing in the morning, at least 2 weeks ahead and unless your Italian is fluent, have someone local call for you! Bigger groups are more likely, but you could be lucky. Same goes for Osteria dell’ Bottega. I like Trattoria da Me, absolutely the best friggione, crescentine and soft, crispy and fluffy together it’s a match. If you don’t know what that is, don’t worry just order it, you won’t be disappointed. Everything there is pleasurable you’ll be delighted. There’s Osteria Broccaindosso, those guys are characters, and very good “fuori menu” off menu choices-specials. Sfogliarina is popular lines around the block, it’s good. But there’s better. If you must visit, go early 11am for lunch or definitely during the week are your preferred times. Also Osteria del Orsa if on a budget will feel good to you. Trattoria Collegia, Trattoria del Tempo Buono, Drogheria della Rosa, Al Sangiovese and Casa Merlo are are solid choices, serving up traditional Bolognese fare very well. Another star on my list is Grassilli, founded by Italian actor Raoul Grassilli a quaint little trattoria in a neighborhood street, definitely reserve ahead the “completa” sign is always posted out front. Everything is extraordinary! Also Vagh in Uffezi, another small place with usually only 8 things on the menu, husband and wife team, personal service with pairings. The type of place you just want to order everything of the menu-they both do everything right. It’s truly special. But again call several days ahead.
If you’re looking for a more modern take on traditional Bolognese check out Aihme and Oltre.
For wine bars and Apertivi spots check out Enoteca al Risanamento, Medulla Vini, Enoteca Faccioli and Camera a sud.
For gelato, Bologna has plenty, Cremeria Santo Stefano and Sorbetteria Castiglione are truly incredible, try the unusual flavors the have they’re usually the best. There’s Cremeria Vecchia Stalla also memorable and very popular.
For other the morning, order a cappuccio! Bolognese for cappuccino at Impero, Zanarini, Caffè Terzi, Aroma or Bar Pasticceria Santo Stefano. Theres Gambarini too, but it’s always very crowded and the seating is uncomfortable and limited. For a morning bite, my go to is brioche con pistacchio, there’s mignon, a delightful little treat in all imaginable flavors and colors and many more filled, slathered, flaky and dusted sweet pastries and biscotti. For the pastries that look like and what is known as a croissant-Brioche or Pasta, is how the locals order, saying croissant is a sure sign of a tourist. Cornetto is acceptable too, but more of a Roman word. You want to be Bolognese don’t you? Nevertheless, all of these places serve your sugar rush exceptionally well in the morning, but beware they can definitely become habit forming.
If salty and savory is more your thing, try a pizza, focaccia farcita, salatini, or a tramezzino equally satisfying.
For other interests definitely take a peak in the coolest knife and pasta tools shop in the Quadilatero called aguzzeriadelcavallo or Gilberto with vintage chocolates, confettura and wines. Take a tasting of aceto balsamico tradizionale at Guiseppe Giusti if you’re travel plans don’t include Modena, you can wet your palette right here at the oldest family, and the first that produced and marketed balsamic vinegar since the 17th century.
A 500 year old store Drogheria della Poggia that sells everything soap, candy, traditional Bolognese torte, even Vegemite. I like on Via Oberdan Al Regno della Forma, a parmigiano reggiano cheese shop on steroids, selling made to order chunks vacuum seal for the plane home before your eyes. Wheels of aged parmigiano reggiano are casually stacked like boxes in the store awaiting the cheese mongers knife.
After all this eating and drinking partake in a practice the Bolognese do every Sunday and follow the porticos up to Santuario di San Luca its a wonderful experience that will leave your mind free, you’re heart full and your legs burning, but it’s absolutely breathtaking once you’re there totally worth the pain.
Search for the Seven secrets, I’m not going to tell you what they are, but there’s something about a mysterious telephone, a canal, cannabis, a possible erection, and three arrows the rest you can figure out for yourself-it’s a secret remember!
Meander through the Sala Borsa and look at the Roman ruins dating back to 189 BC, and there’s Etruscan ruins there too from before that time period. Another must see is the Sette Chiese in Piazza Santo Stefano a cluster of religious edifices the earliest dating back to the 4th century. Walk into the courtyard of the Palazzo d'Accursio, all the way in the back is the elevator to the Sala Farnese on the 2nd floor, which is the beginning of the ascend to clock tower. If you don’t want to pay the 8€ to climb further take a snapshot from the window and gaze at the 17th century art that covers the walls.
Take a look in the Basilica di San Petronio, and the very controversial Heaven and Hell, by Dante. There’s also the winter solstice end of the meridian line inlaid in the floor in 1655.
