Modena
Modena is charming that’s the best word to describe it, smaller than most cities, but it packs a huge gastronomic punch. Well of course the famous iconic restaurant that draws crowds from all over is Osteria Francescana, the multiple three Michelin star haven of famed chef Massimo Bottura. There’s plenty of others that won’t break the bank. Trattoria Giardinetto is a must, a traditional Modenese place tucked away in an unassuming alleyway, look for the pig sign. Aldina is another hit, right across from the Mercato Albinelli, which by the way is the best market in the world in my opinion. Mercato Albinelli, named after the mayor in the 30’s, until then was outdoors but moved inside. It’s a kid in a candy store type moment, cheese, Salumi, pantry goods, dolci, pane, pasta I could go on and on! Walk around and gaze, there’s amazing gastronomia stalls there, where you choose ready made vegetable dishes, melanzane parmigiana, lasagne, and other pasta dishes which they will heat for you to eat there. There’s stall like restaurants inside too, notibly Alvinelli and Bottega Antica are packed with glamorous Modenesi. A panino at Bar Schiavoni is quite good, for another panino don’t miss WAP! a notable small shop a few minutes walk from the market. There’s other stalls too, definitely visit Cibo for biscotti torte, gnocco fritto, pizza, focacce, & some great gluten free products. Another gem is Bortolotti Giuseppina for her salse vegetali e confetture ( jarred vegetable sauces and jams- they’re wonderful! Also don’t forget frittelle di bacalà, Modena’s version of deep-fried codfish perfectly seasoned with oregano and garlic.
•For caffe go to Cafe dell’Orologio or Bar Tiffany for cappuccino and hand sized gnocco fritto and brioche for dunking! Also for other sweet treats go Antica Pasticceria San Biagio or Dondi.
•For gelato, Bloom is your best bet, their inventive gelati, incorporates, flowers, fruits, and the best raw ingredients that are available! The staff are friendly and eager to let you taste!
•There’s a fantastic enoteca ( wine bar) con cucina called Archer, the people, snacks and wine are fantastic. Don’t miss it!
Modena is home of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale ( Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena) this is not your grocery store vinegar you may be thinking of- not even close! This artisanal product is handmade by families-for generations-only in this region, go to an Acetaia ( vinegar loft) and learn about this magical elixir. The traditional comes in two ages, Affinato (12 years) and Extra Vecchio 25 years, and is a concentrated sweet, acidic vinegar used to enhance whatever is on your plate, from vegetables, roasted meats, fish, panna cotta, yogurt and especially gelato! The obvious pairing though is Parmigiano Reggiano, preferably 36 month. If you have a car, travel to the Museo del Balsamico Tradizionale in the quaint little town of Splimamberto in the provincia of Modena-about 20 minutes by car. There’s also La Ca dal Non Acetaia which is a wonderful family experience, see Mariangela and her mother Giovanna, wonderful people. Acetaia Cavedoni, nearby picturesque Castelvetro di Modena which is also an amazing experience and taste.
If you’re not mobile you can get a great history and explanation of the process of aceto balsamico tradizionale right in Piazza Grande at the Giuseppe Giusti shop. The Giusti family have been making it since 1605.
•Also don’t miss Hosteria Giusti, originally from the same family. The pride of Modena, in my opinion, the oldest Salumeria con cucina in Europe. In 1598 Giovanni Francesco Giusti began practicing the art of pork processing at this very location. Later in 1605 opening as a Salumeria where the Giusti family would showcase its gold medal winning vinegar. Over the years the Salumeria supplied to all different characters in history including the Duke Cesare d’Este and Gioacchino Rossini-the Italian composer. It stayed under the helm of the Giusti family till 1980 when the Morandi family took it over. Today it is truly the most sought after table in the world. To dine at in the small dining room at the back of the Salumeria was one of the greatest culinary experiences I’ve ever had. Bravo!
