No! we don’t serve Spaghetti Bolognese here. This is Bologna, Italy.
JAN 07, 2024
What is Italian food? No it’s not Chicken Alfredo, garlic knots or Chicken parmigiana! It’s not Parmesan! it’s Par-mi-gian-o Reggi-a-no (as a knowledgeable and humorous friend always says) Not to be unkind to the people that think that is, but it’s NOT Italian food!
Italian food is obsessively seasonal, deeply local and regional. The food in Italy is based on traditions and rituals. What Italians eat in April, they don’t eat in December. What Italians eat for Easter, they don’t eat for Christmas. It’s not unusual, many countries have traditions and rituals relating to food, but here it feels more amplified more praised. Recipes here and are different depending on where you are and who taught you-It’s what your Nonna, Mamma or Zia used to do.
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Talking about recipes for instance in Bologna is sometimes touchy subject. I was having a conversation about a recipe for a ragù with three people, two girls from Bologna, a guy from Ravenna and another girl from Naples. It’s worth pointing out the girl from Naples had lived in Bologna most of her adult life. The answers were so different, and they have a hint of aggression in their answers and a snarky remark to each other’s less than traditional approach to the recipe, with outbursts like “cosa fai con il ragù? “( what are you doing to that ragù) the old saying goes opinions are like…….fill in the blank.
Tagliatelle al ragù ( Trattoria da me)
The one answer that never changes is-if you ask any Italian where can I get the best Tagliatelle al ragù? The answer is always “ mia mamma”! ( my mother)
Food is not just a need of nourishment here, it’s an obsession, every one it seems here cares about what they buy, where it came from, and who made it. It doesn’t matter whether you’re rich or poor everyone here cares about food in some way or another. Sure there are grocery store chains like elsewhere, but even the quality at those places are way more exceptional than their counterparts in America. In Emilia Romagna, especially in the country, even if your on a budget you can eat well, small osterie serving up Gramigna alla salsiccia, Tortelloni burro e salvia and Passatelli for 7.50€ is a deal! Not to mention-salumi e formaggi. And believe me it’s better than some restaurants three times the price. Simplicity at its best.
I’m an Australian American chef living in Bologna, and yes I like to eat! I love going to new restaurants and trying an individual or families version of a classic dish.
Tagliatelle al ragù, the quintessential bowl of pasta of Bologna, handmade pasta rolled out by hand every morning into a sfoglia (a large thin oval of pasta) folded over and over and cut but hand into precise ribbons, boiled till tender in salted water, tossed with a heavenly hearty sauce and showered with parmigiano reggiano-its a thing of beauty.
My personality is obsessive, especially when it comes to food, I’ve traveled around and tasted a myriad of Tagliatelle al ragù all over Emilia Romagna, let’s start with La Baita Malga a Salumeria right in the heart of the tourist craziness that is the quadrilatero, a section of Bologna where the most delicious salumi and formaggi are paraded on the street just waiting to be sampled. On a rainy night I sat perched at an outside table trying not to let droplets of water drip into my Tagliatelle al ragù, for 11.50€ this bowl of pasta satisfied.
The earliest recipe for a ragù served with pasta is said to have comes from the 18th century in Imola, near Bologna, from Alberto Alvisi, cook of the local Cardinal
A ragù is essentially a meat sauce made up of beef and or pork, soffrito ( onions, celery, carrots) sometimes milk, either white or red wine, stock and prosciutto, or pancetta, passata, no garlic, no herbs. However this is where it gets varied, even adding liver or dried mushrooms as in the case of original recipe by Pellegrino Artusi is locked away in Forlimpopoli, a small town in the province of Forlì-Cesana.
But there’s some contradictions, as far as the Bolognese are concerned : the official recipe for tagliatelle al ragù Bolognese was registered in the Bologna Chamber of Commerce, in 1982 not with Artusi including exact measurements.
The width of the tagliatelle, 7mm apparently correspond to 12270th part of the Aisinelli Tower ( its sister Garisenda is scarily leaning right now) the iconic symbols of the city.
Interestingly at Amerigo my alum of sorts, Chef Albert Bettini and his competent squadra make the ragù know as 100% the meat comes from the stomach muscles of Vacca Bianca cows and parts of the Mora Romagnola pigs, a soffrito, white wine and passata. The pasta, made by Roberta or Anna is made from a specially ground intergrale farina from 16th century flour mill il Mulino Dottore up the road from them. The tagliatelle is speedily rolled out by Roberta and tossed ever so delicately in a pan with a touch of butter. No parmigiano reggiano until the very end. This ragù is very different rich, robust and impossible to stop eating once you’ve started.
Bologna, especially is scattered with family owned trattorie and osterie seeing this signature plate. Some excellent, some lackluster.
One of my absolute favorites here in Bologna is Grassilli, a tiny elegant trattoria where I was sat in the quaint cobblestone alley way and served a piccolo salumi misti and the immensely flavorful tagliatelle al ragù. Call ahead it’s always “completa” as the hand written sign says our front!
The tagliatelle al ragù at Trattoria da me also is memorable. I’ve had it many times.
An easy visit is Salsamentaria, on Via Altabella. Almost always guaranteed of a seat with joyful staff and a pleasant tagliatelle al ragù.
Osteria del Podestà an uncomfortably small place right on the man street in the quadrilatero swarming with tourists a tried to enjoy a signature bowl of their ragù outside in the bitter cold one night, the salumi misti that accompanied was better.
On yet another rainy night in Bologna, I visited La Trattoria del Tempo Buono, I ordered the tagliatelle al ragù, this night I felt privileged to be sitting their after being shut out 3 nights in a row for a table for one. La Trattoria del Tempo Buono is a modern contemporary restaurant in Piazza S. Martino with exposed roof beams, brown paper and red checked table cloths, and atmospheric lighting. I was apprehensive, and hopeful but their ragù didn’t disappoint it was lovely rich and luscious. Bravissimo!
If you’re looking for an inexpensive Tagliatelle al ragù, go for Trattoria Mariposa, cozy place ( 9.50 € )or Trattoria il Pellegrino (8.50€) in Murri-just outside the center-they will do its best to satisfy.
Remarkably the place with the biggest line for pasta in Bologna, is Sfogliarina a neat shop right in the center overcrowded with people desperate to get a seat inside and try some of their pasta specialties. Their Tagliatelle al ragù is respectable at 9 € but for me not worth the wait in line. Their other pastas are a little more interesting.
Trattoria Osteria Buca Manzoni, is another traditional place tucked away in a side street-Via Manzoni. Friendly staff, outdated decor, but terrific ragù, could not be better for the belly.
The peaks and valleys of my tagliatelle al ragù eating are slight gradient. Compared to most pasta in America, all of these places are worlds away in quality. But this Bologna, where Italians come to eat. My gluttonous odyssey of eating this signature pasta and meat sauce pairing was always just an overview and a glimpse what’s available at all the amazing food temples there are here. If you’re here for the first time relax and take it all in you’re in Bologna, you’re in Italy. This is not the time to take the Burger King mentality. You can’t “have it your way” No spaghetti! Surrender to Tagliatelle for your “Bolognese sauce”.