an experience in Valsamoggia, the star of Emilia Romagna-Michelin style!
a stage at Amerigo 1934 in Savigno
OCT 15, 2023
As I sped along the SP 26 in my midnight blue Audi rental -through the Colli Bolognesi, excitedly winding the turns, climbing the steep ascents, the hairpins turning back on themselves, dramatic descents through the magical pignoletto vineyards. I’m alive. I’m alive in Valsamoggia.
Valsamoggia is a relatively new named commune incorporating several surrounding towns in an area between Bologna and Modena. The rolling hills, capture the colors of the Fall, the emerald green grass, the light shimmering off sunburst orange roof tops, the azure blue sky, you can feel the brilliance emerging from the food valley.
There is brilliance everywhere here.
The food: Amerigo 1934, a small trattoria, bottega and locanda nestled in the town famous for white truffles during the October months-Savigno.
As a cook and a chef, enamored with Italy I’ve dreamt of working here, but never did I expect to work/stage at a Michelin star restaurant.
Tortellini
Amerigo many years ago in 1934, I found out about this restaurant years ago by reading a story about it. I was determined to experience the day in the life moments of one of the most important gastronomic points of reference in the valley.
I arrived the first time at Amerigo, back in 2021, and again in 2022 for dinner. The restaurant is at the end of the main strada, a mini piazza circles the town creating the quintessential convivial feeI that we love about Italy. The atmosphere inside the restaurant is quiet and intimate, wooden antique tables, richly colored curtains, white tiles, the coolest espresso bar and historical collectibles adorn the space. A friend from Bologna and I sat outside on the smaller tables overlooking the street. We anxiously looked over the 3 page menu in awe of the seasonal and locally sourced ingredients that were throughout. After some great indecisiveness I settled on the seasonal menu which happened to be Summer-“Estate
First was the upside down cake with yellow tomatoes, sweet, delicate with a hint of acidity. The potato gnocchi were pillows of truffle heaven showered with scorzone black truffles sourced meters away. Moving on to secondi-the Apennine Fallow deer leg excelled, lightly smoked with cherry wood-accompanied with tubers, wild mushrooms and plants from the surrounding hills. Rounding out the night was a simple gelato drizzled with aceto balsamico tradizionale. Simple and a delight. There was nothing more pleasing and inspiring than this dinner.
I knew that I wanted to learn from these superstars in this kitchen, I wanted to learn everything I could the chef and team there at Amerigo. I needed to contact Chef Alberto Bettini and stop wasting time.
I private messaged Chef Bettini through Instagram-a little forward but. I politely asked for a chance to work alongside him and his team. Thankfully he accepted!
After several other stages in Italy the time had come to start at Amerigo. My first day as visiting chef working in the kitchen of Amerigo was preparing the biscotti, dolci and the crostate for the small amount of hotel guests that are staying in their boutique hotel nearby the restaurant. My trusted teacher is Claudia, a strong willed Bolognese woman with the patience of Saint and a heart gold. The other “squadra” Giacomo, Maria, Roberto ( Drago) and Alessio make up the team in the kitchen, Luca in the front, and Roberta ( the sfoglina) making the pasta fatto a mano.
After a couple of days with Claudia learning the intricate and delectable biscotti, dolci pane and gelati, Wednesday was upon us. Pasta day!
Roberta handles the mattarello with grace and confidence, like most women here she learned from her grandmother. Anna is here too, a local lady with a tough exterior, infectious laugh and friendly smile. I liked her instantly. Together they talked, I listened, gossip was heavy, there was laughter, expression, strength and excitement. All around a couple of tables at the front of the restaurant, we made tagliatelle, ravioli ( di friggione), tortelli ripieni di parmigiano reggiano con prosciutto di mora romagnola-a rare and extremely tasty ham made from the breed Mora Romagnola pigs- gnocchi and tortellini.
Thursday more prep, caprino ( baby goat), making alchermes, Lambrusco gelato, tigelle, ragù, friggione, calzagatti, veal cheeks braised in Barolo, the brodo for the tortellini, bacala, sfoglia lorda-a stuffed pasta with potatoes, and morels.
The kitchen was as organized and smooth running as anything I’ve ever seen. There was no stress, no arguments, no tension. Everything was executed with ease and passion. Service was flawless and quick, chefs were talking, everyone relaxed, no smack talk even! -“was this really a kitchen”? I asked myself, or some kind of zen get together of cooks. I loved every minute.
On my day off, an experience of ultimate proportion was graciously planned for me by Chef Bettini. A private tour of Rosola, a unique cheese dairy-the only one of its kind-producing the extremely high quality Vacca Bianca Modenese parmigiano reggiano in the hills of Zocca. It was here that would imprint an unforgettable moment in my life that I will remember always. The day continued with visits to Ca’lumaco a prosciuttificio producing hams & other salumi from the Mora Romagnola pigs, aged up to 4 years and the stunningly beautiful Corte d’aibo-an agriturismo and organic winery in the heart of the protected Regional Park of the Abbey of Monteveglio-in the hills a few kilometers from Bologna.
These places are just a few of Amerigo’s sources. I fell in love with Valsamoggia. I’m hooked! Looking forward to the future. More to come.